Cleaning of Gravestones and Monuments by Chicora Foundation
We extend our gratitude for all of
Chicora's efforts to educate
researchers for a positive tombstones future!
Information
and images relating to tombstone/monument repair & maintenance
Copyright 2003, Chicora Foundation, Inc.
Michael
Trinkley, Ph.D., Director, Chicora Foundation, Inc., PO Box 8664,
Columbia, SC 29202, 803-787-6910, www.chicora.org
1. Cemeteries are sacred spaces. They
must be treated with respect. This means that you must avoid yelling or loud
talk. You should avoid walking
The first question should always be, “does this
stone truly need cleaning?” Often people mistake the patina of age for
“dirt.” They want marble stones, for example, to be as white as when
originally purchased – and this is a tragic mistake. Not only does
such aggressive cleaning cause irreparable damage, but it destroys the
stone’s patina – and history – making it look like the stone was
placed in the cemetery only yesterday. Moreover, the cause of much
biological growth is the shade created by the dense foliage of trees
that usually can’t – or shouldn’t – be removed from the
cemetery. Consequently, once you begin a program of washing you find
that you must clean the stones every few months. And every cleaning, no
matter how gentle, has the potential to cause additional damage to the
stone. So, you may decide that a soiled stone is best left in that
condition.
There are times when biological growth may be
causing deterioration of the stone. In such circumstances it may become
necessary to clean the stone. Many professional conservators will also
clean the stone in order to get closer to the original stone color for
infill matching.
Algae, lichen, fungi
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that may be green, black, gray, yellow, red, orange, brown, or blue –
can be hazardous to gravestones because they trap moisture on (and under
the surface of) the stone. They also secrete acids that can dissolve
limestone, marble, sandstone, concrete, and mortar. And they may insert
their "roots" into the pores of the stone. These growths will
swell and shrink in response to moisture, leading to cracking and
spalling of the stone. Plant life C
such as ivy, ferns, and moss, may be hazardous to the gravestone because
they have roots that will penetrate the stone and also because they trap
moisture.
Removal of Organic Materials
On smooth, stable surfaces, algae, lichen, and
fungus may sometimes be easily brushed or scraped off before washing (always
use scrapers that are softer than the stone, such as wood popsicle
sticks or bamboo skewers). Most surfaces, however, require wetting
the growth before gently brushing, prying, or scraping them off the
stone. Plants should be gently pulled out of cracks or clipped,
and then the soil or debris they were rooted in should be brushed away
from the stone. The plant's root system should be removed with the soil
and debris. If there is a mass of plant life, don't just yank it from
the stone C you'll almost certainly damage the stone. Carefully
clip or pull away each section, to prevent pulling away any loose or
weakened fragments of stone.
Basic Cleaning
1. Remove any loose debris or plant life (see
above).
2. Thoroughly wet the stone with a hose and running
water. The water will wash away some of the dirt or biological material,
and also is essential to prevent the stone from absorbing the detergent
you will be using as the next step in cleaning. If you don’t have a
source of running, potable water – don’t attempt to clean the stone!
3. Gently scrub the stone with very light pressure
in a circular motion using a soft-bristle brush to dislodge
soil/biological growth from the stone. Work from the bottom of the
stone up toward the top C
this prevents staining and streaking as clean water drains downward. Do
not use a dry brush! A dry brush can damage the gravestone by
removing the upper layers of the stone, causing it to deteriorate faster
or by opening small holes or pores for future biological growth.
Constantly dip your brush in a bucket of water, or better, allow a water
hose to run on the stone as you brush. Remember, less abrasion on the
stone surface is best.
4. Rinse the brush frequently! Use a
clean brush to clean with; don't abrade the gravestone by dragging dirt,
sand, particles of broken stone, twigs, etc. across the surface you are
supposed to be protecting.
5. Use clean water. If the gravestone is
particularly dirty, change your bucket of water frequently, so that you
are not dipping your brush into a suspended solution of the grit and
biological matter you are removing. This is another convenience of
having water running over the stone throughout the cleaning.
6. Rinse the stone thoroughly with water.
Cleaning with Vulpex Soap
1. Thoroughly wet the stone with running water from
a hose. This, of course, isn't necessary if this step follows basic
water cleaning since the stone will ready be wet.
2. Create a cleaning solution of water and Vulpex
Liquid Soap (1 ounce Vulpex to 1 gallon of water, yielding a 1%
solution) in a clean bucket. Don't make more than a gallon at a time.
Vulpex
Liquid Soap is potassium methyl cyclohexyl oleate and has a pH
of 10.5 to 11.5. Undiluted it has a flash point of 123EF.
Diluted with water it is considered noncombustible. There are no
specific hazards in handling either the concentrate or diluted
solutions. Since Vulpex is a most efficient degreaser, you
should use protective gloves. Odors or fumes from the water
solutions of Vulpex are not known to be harmful, but adequate
ventilation should be used. You should avoid splashing the
liquid in your eyes. Ask the supplier for a Material Safety Data
Sheet (MSDS) for additional safety information.
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3. Dip your soft-bristle brush in the soap solution
and scrub the stone with very light pressure in a circular motion to
dislodge soil/biological growth from the stone. Work from the bottom
of the stone up toward the top C this prevents staining and streaking as clean water drains
downward. Do not use a dry brush! Never apply the undiluted soap
directly to the stone! Allow a water hose to run on the stone as
you clean. Remember: the less soap you use and the shorter its contact
time with the stone, the better. If you allow the soap to remain in
contact with the stone, there is more of a chance of it being deeply
absorbed and perhaps causing future chemical deterioration of the stone.
4. Rinse your brush frequently using clean water,
then dip it back into the soap bucket to pick up more Vulpex solution.
Don't abrade the gravestone by dragging dirt, sand, particles of broken
stone, twigs, etc. across the surface you are supposed to be protecting.
It is also hard to see if you have finished cleaning a stone if all you
are doing is dragging a slurry of dirt and debris around and around with
your brush.
5. Remember that if biological materials continue to
cling to the stone, you may use a wooded popsicle stick, or bamboo
skewer to gently pry or scrape the material away from the surface – if
the stone is in stable condition. Do not dig at it!
Digging, gouging, and hard scraping will damage the stone. If the
material continues to cling, use more water. Eventually water will
soften all biological materials enough to allow them to be safely
removed.
6. If at any time you feel that the stone you are
working on is unstable C it flakes, spalls, or sugars (produces lots of
grit) C
STOP IMMEDIATELY and get
assistance.
7. When the stone is clean, rinse it thoroughly
with water. This means allowing water to run over the stone for at least
an additional five minutes C about the time it will take you to locate the next
stone to be cleaned and get set up.
8. Never undertake cleaning is freezing temperatures
are anticipated within the next 24 hours.
Cleaning with D/2 Architectural
Antimicrobial
1. Thoroughly wet the stone with running water from
a hose. This, of course, isn't necessary if this step follows basic
water cleaning since the stone will ready be wet.
2. Heavy growth should be cleaned with undiluted
D/2. For lighter deposits D/2 can be diluted with potable water from 1:1
to 1:4 parts water by volume.
D/2
Architectural Antimicrobial is a proprietary combination of
octyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, Oioctyl dimethyl ammonium
chloride, oidecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and alkyl dimethyl
benzyl ammonium chloride with surfactants, wetting agents, and
buffers. It has a pH of 9.5.
It is noncombustible. There are no specific hazards in
handling either the concentrate or diluted solutions. You should
avoid splashing the liquid in your eyes. Ask the supplier for a
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for additional safety
information.
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3. The D/2 can be applied to the stone using a
brush, roller, or pump sprayer. Scrub the surface thoroughly with a
soft-bristle brush and allow the D/2 to remain on the surface of the
stone for 1 to 2 minutes (up to 10 minutes for optimal action when there
is heavy growth). Then apply additional D/2 to maintain a wet surface.
Lightly mist with water and continue light scrubbing. Complete cleaning
may require multiple applications.
4. If at any time you feel that the stone you are
working on is unstable C it flakes, spalls, or sugars (produces lots of
grit) C
STOP IMMEDIATELY and get
assistance.
5. When the stone is clean, rinse it thoroughly
with water. This means allowing water to run over the stone for at least
an additional five minutes C about the time it will take you to locate the next
stone to be cleaned and get set up.
6. Never undertake cleaning in freezing temperatures
are anticipated within the next 24 hours.
What NEVER to do to Stone
Examples
of Cleaning Damage
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Acid
Cleaning
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Bad
Cleaning
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Bleached
Stone
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Cleaning
Stain
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There
are some “cleaning” approaches that should NEVER
be used on cemetery markers:
Techniques
to AVOID
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Why?
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Use
of bleach
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Sodium
hypochlorite (common bleach) contains salts that damage stone.
Stone “cleaned” with bleach, upon careful inspection,
reveals erosion and yellowing.
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Use
of acid cleaning
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Acids
on marble and limestone dissolve the stone, leaving an
inappropriate glossy and crystallized surface. This damage
cannot be undone and the use of acids is also dangerous to you
and surrounding vegetation.
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Use
of sand blasting
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This
approach (even if “soft” materials like glass spheres are
used) is very harsh and will dramatically abrade the stone
surface. This has the potential to actually accelerate further
deterioration of the stone.
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Use
of high pressure water
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Water
pressure over 40-50 psi has the potential to significantly
damage any stone that isn’t sound, increasing spalling and
accelerating sugaring.
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Recarving
inscriptions
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While
not actually a cleaning technique, this is sometimes done to
improve the readability of faint inscriptions. But it does
irreparable damage to historic stones, destroying their original
artistry and beauty – and destroying the historic significance
of the stone itself. There are other approaches if a family
wants to ensure that the grave continues to be clearing marked,
such as setting a new stone horizontal on the ground.
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Sources for Products
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Vulpex Liquid Soap
Conservation Resources International
8000-H Forbes Place
Springfield, VA 22151
www.conservationresources.com
800-634-6932
University Products
517 Main Street – PO Box 101
Holyoke, MA 01041
www.universityproducts.com
800-628-1912
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D/2 Architectural Antimicrobial
Cathedral Stone Products, Inc.
7266 Park Circle Drive
Hanover, MD 21076
www.jahnmortars.com
800-684-0901
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